Tips and FAQ from Denton Sewing Center

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: What's the difference between a ‘denim’ needle and a ‘universal’ needle?

Q2: How often should I change my needle?

Q3: How often should I oil my sewing machine/serger?

Q4: When should I have my machine serviced?

Q5: What does a serger do and do I still need my regular sewing machine.

Q6: My thread is making loops on the underside of the fabric, do I need to adjust my bobbin tension?

Q7: Do I need to have my embroidery machine plugged into a serge protector?

Q8: Will my sewing machine use a twin needle?

Q9: I'm sewing on knit fabric and my stitches look funny. Is there something wrong with my machine?

Q10: Will serger thread work in my sewing machine?

Q1: What's the difference between a ‘denim’ needle and a ‘universal’ needle?

A: Most needles you purchase off the wall are a universal unless otherwise noted on needle package. Universal needles are slightly rounded at the tip and are used for both knit and woven fabrics. Most people mistake larger needles for denim needles. Using a size 18 would be like driving a nail through fabric due to the slightly rounded point. A denim needle has a very sharp point so that it will penetrate tightly woven fabric much easier, therefore a size 14 denim is all that is generally needed.

Q2: How often should I change my needle?

A: Sharp needles make better looking stitches so needles should be changed fairly often to keep your stitch quality consistent. When doing machine embroidery, change needles every 10,000 stitches. This means if you are doing large embroideries, you'll need to change needles after every design to get the best possible stitch quality. In garment construction, you'll need to change needles about every third garment. In quilting, change needles after every third bobbin.

Q3: How often should I oil my sewing machine/serger?

A: With constant use, you should oil your sewing machine or serger about every 10-12 hours of use. A rule of thumb for a machine that is used less often, or used quite a bit and then left to sit for extended periods of time, is to oil it after you are through with your project, and then remember to run it every so often so that the oil is kept distributed through the machine. Of course, you never oil a computerized machine.

Q4: When should I have my machine serviced?

A: We recommend that a machine sewn on regularly be serviced once a year.

Q5: What does a serger do and do I still need my regular sewing machine.

A: Sergers seam, overcasts, and trim in one step. This process takes you two or three steps on your sewing machine. The serger gives you the professional seam and/or finish that you have always wanted. With a 5-thread serger you would be most likely to complete a garment with the exception of buttonholes or zippers. The most widely purchased serger is a 4/3 thread with differential feed. There are some sewing techniques that cannot be done on a serger, such as topstitching, buttonholes and zippers. A serger, like a microwave oven, is a wonderful tool and makes the job go much more quickly, but will not replace the conventional machine.

Q6: My thread is making loops on the underside of the fabric, do I need to adjust my bobbin tension?

A: No! Absolutely not. If the thread is looping on the underside of the fabric that means that the needle tension is too loose--the loops are formed because there is insufficient top tension to keep the thread on top. If the bobbin thread is coming to the top of the fabric it means the needle tension is too tight and is pulling the bobbin up. You should be able to get a balance stitch by adjusting the needle tension. We don't recommend that you adjust the bobbin tension. This could cause more problems than it will cure.

Q7: Do I need to have my embroidery machine plugged into a serge protector?

A: Yes, absolutely. All computerized machines can be damaged by power serges and should be plugged into serge protectors.

Q8: Will my sewing machine use a twin needle?

A: If your sewing machine loads the bobbin in the front or is a top drop in bobbin it should have no problem. Your manual should tell you. Older machines that thread the needle from the side will not use twin needles.

Q9: I'm sewing on knit fabric and my stitches look funny. Is there something wrong with my machine?

A: Probably not. You may simply be using the wrong needle. We recommend using a ballpoint needle for sewing on knits. The ball-point will push the fibers of the knit apart and form the stitch around the knit fiber, rather than splitting the fibers of the knit, which makes the stitches look uneven. If you are sewing on a knit that stretches a lot in both directions, you will need to use a stretch needle to prevent skipped stitches.

Q10: Will serger thread work in my sewing machine?

A: Serger thread is made to be use in a serger, which uses three to four threads to finish a seam. Therefore, when you put serger thread on your sewing machine your stitch quality will be affected. For garment construction you should use good quality polyester or cotton covered polyester all purpose thread for the best results.

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by Reynolds Web Design

Don Reynolds
Copyright © 1998 - 2001 Denton Sewing Center. All rights reserved.
Revised: April 13, 2008.